Stella McCartney AW15/16

Wardrobe for the modern woman, the Stella woman, or as the designer said herself “It was about finding the Stella woman and the precision she has in her life and in her wardrobe, and celebrating her”. The show was set in the beautiful Paris Opera with Sir Paul McCartney and Kanye West keeping the front row warm.

Stella built her collection really wisely this season putting her core customer at the centre of it. It was a mix of minimal structured garments with a twist and show-stopper pieces. “Every day you feel different. There is a really refined tailored coat, but there is other days when you want volume and movement in what you are wearing. You want to have people pay attention” said the designer, explaining the flawless blend of contemporary staples and untraditional pieces.

It was all about graceful lines, wrapping around the body in unusual ways, mixing in different textures and fabrics, but at the same time making the garments extremely wearable. Trousers came with paper-bag waistlines, high cuffs or fluttering hems, elongating the legs, but still proposing something new and fresh. This new silhouette of the 70s inspired slim elongated trousers is specifically gaining momentum for next season as seen on other designers, including Derek Lam and Narciso Rodriguez.

Asymmetry was the big thing that night. The asymmetrical off the shoulder chunky ribbed knits were appealing to the eye and yet so daring. Subtle seductiveness was achieved by the bare shoulder corsets and dresses that had a strap gently hugging the arm. Sensuality, elegance and gracefulness were further redefined by the twisted double strand pearls on the models’ bare décolletage at the end of the show. Another surprise just before the finale was the splash of jacquard and brocade, making eveningwear more rich.

The most talked about items were the “fur free fur” coats. Coats to get noticed in. Animal friendly oversized fur coats that were taken up a notch with hand embroidery and a mix of textures, making sure to create a statement.

Stella achieved the perfect balance between femininity and androgyny, freedom and classics and by doing so she ticked all the right boxes.

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